Understand
Lake Toba is an immense volcanic lake
covering an area of 1,707 sq km (1,000 sq km bigger than Singapore) with an
island in the center. Formed by a gigantic volcanic eruption some 70,000 years
ago, it is probably the largest resurgent caldera on Earth. Some studies say it
might have been associated with causing previous ice age/climate change and the
largest human population bottleneck ever. Genetic estimates suggests that there
were only a few thousand individuals that survived the catastrophe. The island
in the middle - Pulau Samosir - was joined to the caldera wall by a narrow
isthmus, which was cut through to enable boats to pass; a road bridge crosses
the cutting. Samosir island is the cultural centre of Batak tribe who are
mostly Christians in the modern days.
Lake Toba was perhaps once more popular
than it is nowadays, but for many it remains a firm fixture on the Banana
Pancake Trail. It is a great laid back place to chill out for a few days after
jungle trekking etc. The location is very popular with Chinese tourists around
Chinese New Year, when availability drops dramatically and accommodation costs
sky rocket.
Talk
Indonesian, known as Bahasa Indonesia.
Get in
Most visitors fly to Medan and then travel
by land to Parapat, the town by Lake Toba. Parapat is about 4 hours by car from
Medan (4-6 hours by public bus). You can get from Medan airport to Lake Toba
entirely by public transport if you wish. First, you must go from the airport
to Amplas bus terminal. Walk through the car park and go out the main car exit
of the airport, cross the road and turn left after the petrol station, and then
turn right (about a ten-fifteen min walk altogether). There, you can catch a
yellow public bus, number 64, to Amplas Terminal for Rp 3,000. From Amplas
terminal, you can get a public bus to Parapat for Rp 22,000. So you can get
from Medan airport to Parapat for a toal of Rp 25,000 (October, 2010), and then
get a ferry out to Samosir island for Rp 7,000.
From Medan Polonia airport you can fly
directly to Silangit with Susi Air daily. Flights take approximately 40 minutes and is a much better and safer way
than the road trip.
Alternatively, a scheduled and shared 7 passenger
minivan to Parapat costs Rp 60,000 and can be arranged by most hotels in Medan
(Feb 08). Raja Taxi ☎+62 617 366555; operates a shared cab service
leaving from Medan airport at scheduled times that costs Rp 75,000 per person; Tobatransporter contact/short message
+6285261492668 operates a private (5 seaters or 7 seaters) cab service leaving
from Medan airport at scheduled times as well as appointment its take and that
costs Rp 500,000 (Dec 11). Alternatively, you can book the whole taxi, a Toyota
Avanza which seats seven, for Rp 450,000; but this vehicle is too small for 7
seats. Parapat is a nice little town with reasonable hotels/guest houses, good
food options and so on. However its on the island itself that you get the real
feeling of Danau Toba.
Parapat is connected to Tomok and Tuk Tuk
on the Samosir Island by boat/ferry that run every 1-2 hr, the last one at 6PM
(Rp 7,000). The place to catch the ferry to Tuk Tuk is called "Tiga
Raja" harbour/jetty. Some ferry's owner are tourist hunter and will
overcharge you for Rp 20-30,000 for the same trip to Samosir Island. In my
opinion try to observe the ferry with wooden bench inside and light green
colored ferry. Those are the ferries that charge Rp 7,000 and the locals take
to cross over. Self proclaimed 'Tourist Hunters' may befriend you on the boat
but are harmless and often helpful. Tuk Tuk is the main town to stay on
Samosir. Use the boat service not the large ferry, they will drop you directly
at your Tuk Tuk resort.
There are also two other harbour in
Samosir, they are: Nainggolan (1 hour drive from Tomok) connected Muara, the
ferry runs every Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and the other located
in Simanindo (30 min drive) connected to Tigaras which runs daily until 6PM.
Please note: As of Feb 2011 here is only one
cirrus/mastercard ATM on the island (at the white beach entrance), better to
get enough cash at Parapat before crossing the lake to the island.
Another great way to get to Lake Toba is
by train. Two or three trains leave each day in that direction and you want to
get off either at Pematang Siantar or Tebing Tinggi (note: the train stops at
one or the other). If you want to get to the train directly from Medan airport,
get a taxi or becak, and tell them or write Lapangan Merdeka and Setasiun
Kereta Api Medan. From the station there's only 2 train leaves Medan to
Permatang Siantar (or Siantar) which is 11AM and 7:25PM. The fare is Rp 12,000
per person and the journey takes approximately 3-4 hr. Train stop at almost
each station. Once you reach the Siantar station double check the schedule for
the train for going back to Medan. Then take a Becak or walk to the bus/taxi
hub to travel to Perapat. The train is a wonderful way to travel if you like to
learn more culture on their daily living and lifestyle. Once you are in your
seat and have a stream of buskers, food vendors and friendly local passing by
you will know why this is often the best way to travel overland. From Siantar
(1 hour taxi) or Tebing Tinggi (2 hr taxi) you will need to hire a taxi or a
bus for road transport to Parapat.
The ferry ride over is fantastic, just
truly peaceful, apart from the car radios playing, the ladies selling peanuts,
bottled water, mie or pretty much anything else. Normally some of the
passengers and vendors will be able to speak English. Landing at the other end
of the 1 hour ferry journey is daunting, but again, behave like everyone else
in Indonesia and just push, ever so politely, but firmly and eventually you
will get off the ferry and onto the main road. Alternatively use the boat
service but watch out for the guys that ask for the fee before you embark —
they do not work for the operators, you pay on the boat.
The road signs are pretty much useless, as
is asking the locals for directions. Anyway if you are going to tuk tuk keep
going, even though it may seem to be taking forever and you have been stuck in
the Kijang for 8 hrs= with 10 other people, but you will get there and the
hosts will be wonderful. Do not try to drive out of Samosir Island by going up
and over the top to the land bridge. The road is very bad. It is also possible
to go to Parapat from Dumai by mini-van, leaving in the afternoon. The trip
takes around 11 hr, and costs Rp 150,000.
Get around
Local transportation around the lake takes
the form of boats (cheaper, school boats with limited schedules and more
expensive public boats that operate throughout the day).
Public Boats from Parapat and surrounding areas
sail from either Ajibata or Tigaraja to Tuktuk or Tomok at Samosir Island. The
fee is Rp 7,000 per trip.
There is also bigger ship which transports
Cars and Busses sailing between Tigaraja and Tomok.
Hire a motorcycle for a day or two and get
out and about Rp 70,000 per day including full petrol. You can bargain down to
Rp 50,000 per day in low season if you hire for several days. Most of the
motorcycles available for rent are the owner's own transportation, so you may
need to return it to them before sunset (depends on owner) or you may be charge
for an extra fees. Take a map. There are no police checking licenses and there
is not much traffic - just watch out for the big trucks, buses and diabolical
bridges. Honking around is a norm to indicate that there's incoming car from
the opposite or there's a car bypassing you from the back (in driver's point of
view). A good journey to take on a motorcycle would be to travel North from Tuk
Tuk around to the western shore, stopping at the tourist sites along the way
such as the many and varied traditional houses and villages. The roads are very
bad in the centre of the island (bumpy and washed out) and it takes half a day
to cross this way (verse 1-2 hours by coast road which is more scenic anyway).
You can expect to ride at least up to 100 km in the day. If you're going around
the island with motorcycle or bicycle, be sure to put on some sunblock as when
you venture out in the morning things can be deceiving due to the cooler
temperatures in the morning cause of the higher elevation, but the sun will be
intense by mid-day.
It may be obvious but just remember there
are no taxis around Tuk Tuk. Sure you can walk the small part of the island in
an hour or so but if you are heading out for the night plan ahead on how you
will get back home. The locals are very friendly people who will go out of
their way to help. However, some corners of the island are very quiet at night
and you may find yourself on a long long walk.
Most of the cottages and guest houses at
Tuk Tuk will rent you a very serviceable bicycle for a nominal fee, this is a
very much preferred way to get around, but be very careful for the cars as
nobody looks and there does not seem to be any right side of the road, even
when its the left side.
See
There are hot springs on the western side
of the island just across the causeway from Pangururan. The water is hot.
Locals usually use their hands to get some water out of the pool, standing in
the pool is possible, but you probably won't be able to swim. The fee to enter
to the surroundings is Rp 2,000. The pools are free, there's some special
foreigner pool for Rp 10,000.
- Samosir - Many Big Statues as Cemeteries for Batak people ancestors
- Samosir, Simanindo - Batak Museum with traditional dance performed twice daily
- Samosir, Ambarita - Stone chairs used for judgement and executions
- Samosir, Tomok - Good place for locals and foreigner to shop for souvenirs. vegetable and fruits. There's a tomb for you to visit as well.
- Just on the other side of Samosir, near Pangururan are hot springs
- From Tuk tuk you can see a waterfall up the mountain behind you. It's a great walk with a rewarding fresh swim.
Do
Kick back and relax after the frenetic
atmosphere of Indonesia. Swim in the volcanically warmed waters of the lake or
arrange an overnight 'party' boat out on the lake if you can get enough
volunteers together. A beautiful place to do nothing at all. Plenty of second
hand book shops to stock up on reading material. Traditional Batak Dance in
Restaurant Bagus Bay every Wednesday and Saturday from 8:15PM onwards. After
the dance, sit back and enjoy the folk songs done by a group of men.
Eat
The main road around Tuktuk is lined with
small restaurants of varying quality. Also on offer is magic mushroom and
various "happy herb" pizzas if you want that.
- Cotney Restaurant, (by the Samosir resort). Rendangs, curries. Internet is available at a reasonable local price.
- Jenny's Restaurant, (There is only one or two roads so simply ask for Jenny's.). Restaurant with view of Lake Toba. Curries, fresh lake-fish, steamed or grilled, western food such as schnitzel (breaded pork or chicken chop pan fried). Desserts include fresh papaya that grows in the back-yard or a golden-brown banana pancake with chocolate sauce and a sprinkle of coconut. Once all the guests in the small place with only about 5 tables are fed and happy, Rinto will take the guitar from the wall and entertain his patrons
- Joe's, (about 2 km from Tuk Tuk towards Ambarita). A family restaurant with a kind, friendly owner. Chicken à la batak Rp 25,000, banana chocolate cake Rp 80,000 (for a whole cake). Also has fresh vanilla for sale (Rp 70,000 for 100 grams) and motorbike rental.
- Marco Polo, Close to the northern tip of Tuk Tuk (Walk north past most restaurants, about 15 min from Carolina). Views and reasonably priced food. Make sure to try the avocado sandwich for Rp 10,000, the avocado tree can be seen from the balcony. The owners are extremely nice and helpful but don't seem to get many customers as they are past the main tourist area.
- Maruba Restaurant, Tuk-tuk (In between Amberoba Hotel and Rodeo Accommodation). Traditional Batak and Indonesian food and a variety of Western meals such as schnitzels and stuffed roast chicken. Bread and baguettes baked most days. You can order a Batak feast one day in advance. Main dishes are all served with Batak style vegetable dishes and rice. Some choices are boneless fish curry, ikan na neura (very fresh raw fish marinated with candlenuts, spices & lime juice), napi nadir (a Batak style curry made with grilled chicken), saksang (chopped pork cooked with Batak spices and fresh pig's blood (blood is optional).
- Orari Restaurant, Tuk-Tuk (Next to Anju), ☎ +62 625 451093. Restaurant with traditional Batak, Indonesian and European cuisine. Spaghetti bolognese, nasi goreng 'special', beef rendang, BBQ fish. Restaurant has a view of the lake. Motorbike rentals also available for Rp 60,000.
- Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451318 (http://tabores@indo.net.id). Free wifi, western-styled food served, the extensive menu is possibly pricier than other options. They have baked goods and European quality natural yoghurt. Fish is caught directly from the lake. from 215.000.
- Today's cafe, Tuk-tuk (5mins walk from samosir guesthouse). The owner of this small cafe, juliet is the friendliest host in the island! Pay her a visit and you will visit again for sure! Mains from 20000rps-35000rps. Wifi available for 10000rps an hour.
Drink
There is one discotheque on Fri and Sat
nights - expect the latest 80s music. Better to drink at your guest house
generally.
Saturday night is often the highlight on the local
calendar. You can hear a chorus of parties going around the Tuk Tuk area.
- Samosir Cottages you will provide a wonderful local Batak performance that is a mixture of traditional dances and fantastic drinking songs.
There are a number of fine spots around
the Tuk Tuk area to catch a sunset beer.
- Reggae Bar is perched high up looking over the lake.
- Hibiscus Bar on main street is hosted by two wonderful local girls and plays cool tunes with a little encouragement. Thats the thing to remember in Tuk Tuk.
This area is in a depressed tourist state
but is actual a wonderful gem that should be on the world stage. So while some
places may look like not much is going on- just go in - and the momemtum will
build into a fun filled night with new friends.
Sleep
There are numerous hotels and guest
houses, mainly in Tuk tuk but with a few scattered in other small towns around
the island. During Chinese New Year (end of Jan/early Feb), many Indonesians
come for vacation and will pay generously for their rooms (about triple the
rate). To accommodate these guests, some guest house owners may ask their
existing guests to vacate their rooms, but only giving them very short notice.
Therefore, when arriving before Chinese New Year, check with the guest house
owner to ensure your stay will not be interrupted.
- Bagus Bay, Bagus Bay, ☎ +62 625 451287. Next to the lake. A dark wood and bamboo bar/restaurant gives the place a relaxed feel. The most rooms are basic. They have a restaurant and internet computers. Free secure WIFI. Rp 30,000-175,000.
- Barbara`s Guesthouse, Ambarita, ☎ +62 625 700 0230 (barbarasguesthouse@laketoba.de). Small quite relaxing place a few km from Tuk Tuk with lovely scenery and good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several houses. Western and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant or on the terrace. Tourist information and good tips about Sumatra. From Rp 70,000.
- Hotel Carolina, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451210 (carolina@indosat.net.id). 49 rooms set in a beautiful tropical garden. It has a restaurant with a verandah overlooking the lake. Staff are very helpful. Small Batak style cottages up the hill have cold water only. Luxury rooms on the lake shore come with hot water, a bath tub and a fridge. They have a lake area for swimming with a diving board and pontoon to relax. The hotel can organise travel, trips and motorbike rental. Computer room and free wifi in the restaurant area, though the speed can be very slow. Rp 45,000-150,000+10%.
- Ebikel's Homestay, (just next to Hotel Carolina). Homestay with a decent room and affordable price. The owner Ebikel is a helpful and willing guide to Samosir Island.
- Christina Guesthouse, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451027. A small relaxing place with lovely scenery and good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several traditional Batak-houses). Internet and skype access are available for reasonable price. Western and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant. General tourist information and good tips about Sumatra. From Rp 50,000.
- Liberta Homestay, Sosor Galung, ☎ +62 625 451035. It has quiet private cabins on the lake. Friendly owner Mr Moon will sing, cook, and go out of his way for you. He also provides a herbal blend against diarrhea. Rp 35,000+.
- Mas Cottages, (about 2 km from Tuk Tuk towards Ambarita). Closer to the ancient ceremonial stone chairs than downtown Tuk-Tuk. Variety of accommodation options all directly on the lake including suites and traditional Batak houses. Prices are a bit higher for this secluded location. Rooms with hot water, but the hot water is unreliable. Good breakfast. No wifi or internet, and the nearby internet café seems always to be closed. Rp 60,000-70,000.
- Romlan, ☎ +62 625 451386 (romlantuktuk@yahoo.com). Small guesthouse with 12 rooms including 2 batak cottages in both a single and a 2 storey building. The rooms are clean and comfortable with attached bathroom. All rooms have a direct lake view. Good for swimming and relaxing. Local and indonesian food including some German meals. Free Wifi. Private boat dock. Cottages Rp 40,000, rooms Rp 100,000.
- Samosir Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451170 (info@samosircottages.com). Good for those who arrive late in Parapat, there is usually a representative to take them to the cottages. The waterfront is clean, and the large restaurant food and drinks. Batak music provided every Wed night and Sat night. If you walk outside the hotel you can use a local cafe which may offer some more variety and cheaper prices. They also own Samorsir Villa Resort 5 mins drive away. Its sister resort has new rooms, free internet, a pool and a restaurant providing food and drinks. From Rp 200,000.
- Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62 625 451 318 (tabores@indo.net.id). Rooms are clean and quite modern by Sumateran standards. Free wifi. Western-styled food served in the restaurant is good. From Rp 120,000.
- Tony's Guest House, (ask any local). Nice people and nice double room. Vegetable taco for Rp 21,000. From Rp 25,000.
- Aman guesthouse, Tuk tuk (Next to tony's). Traditional Batak houses with hot water shower. Rp 40,000-50,000rps per room.
- Parnas Homestay and Bar, Tuktuk Siadong - Samosir Island, Parapat 22395, Indonesien, ☎ +62 625 451167. A very chilled out place on the left wing of the peninsula Tuktuk. 4 very spacious and beautifully furnished rooms with bathroom, direct access to the lake and stunning views. There's a huge Bar and restaurant with a communal room. Free Pool Billiard, Table Tennis, Darts. Live Musik, Scooter Rental, BBQ, Laundry. Rooms between Rp 60.000 in low Season and Rp 150.000 in high season (note: confirm the agreed room price in writing as it may change when you get the bill)
Stay Safe
The local Batak people are very
respectful. Some of the local males may try to turn on the charm too much. A
popular way for tourists to get around Samosir Island is to hire a motorcycle
Rp 70,000-80.000, a lower rate may be available if rented for a longer period.
Care should be taken if choosing this option as the roads around the island are
in poor condition and medical services very limited if you have an accident
requiring medical treatment.
Get out
There are a few 'Taksi Trans' operators
that carry passengers between Parapat and Medan. The trip takes four hours
depending upon on the traffic flow, Rp 65,000 per person. There are seven to a
van if using a Kijang MPV or Kijang Innova MPV. If you book early, you can get
the passenger seat next to the driver. Be warned that it will be a bumpy and
exciting ride as most of the drivers are "F-1" drivers and like to
across to the wrong side of the road on corners, run red lights, speeding,
honking, and use their cellphone when driving. Take the 7AM ferry from Tuk Tuk, and have breakfast in Parapat. From the
harbour in Parapat, jump in a local mini-van (Rp 2,000) towards the Parapat bus
station. From there you can reach nearly all the big cities in Sumatra and even
Java. A night trip to Bukkintinggi in an air-con coach costs around Rp 180,000
with the A.L.S. company. Prepare for one of the worst night of your trip.